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The Average Easter in PakistanBy Julie Long The ceiling fan thumped softly, providing background noise in the stifling predawn heat. The mosquito's close proximity to my ear was wreaking havoc with my subconscious. A quick swat at the offending insect and a peek at the alarm clock on my rattan nightstand confirmed my suspicion that the day was about to begin. Moments later the crackling loudspeaker from the mosque across the street echoed off the Margalla’s¾ foothills of the majestic Himalayan mountain range. And then as every other day unfolds in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan, "Allah-u-Akbar," the muezzin’s call to prayer, rings out across the "land of the pure." The city is already in motion, throbbing to the beat of a vast untapped South Asian consumption market of 200 million people. Flanked by an eclectic and ornery bunch: Iran to the southwest, Afghanistan to the west and north; China to the northeast; India stretching down its eastern side and the affluent Gulf states just across the Arabian Sea, Pakistan can boast of having a significant geographic advantage for commerce. The sights and smells of the teeming bazaars are punctuated by the blast of horns as the city's flotilla of vintage Bedford buses, mirror-buffed and chrome sequined, compete for space with the motorized rickshaws and two-wheeled, horse-drawn tongas on the congested streets. The true meaning of the term inshallah ("God willing") will soon become apparent as you traverse roads with suicidal drivers operating vehicles at break-neck speed anywhere, anytime, without thought for anyone else. Pakistan's minority Christian population greets the sunrise on Easter Sunday with the first of three services. Sunday is the first day of the workweek in this Islamic society and Easter Sunday is no exception. Although it is not a public holiday, most Christians are afforded the opportunity to attend services. It's a relief to get one service in before the temperature soars past 100° Fahrenheit. The day is celebrated with equal amounts of festivity and fervor. The Christian counterpart to the Muslim call to prayer is the steady rhythm of the tublas (drums) and harmonium (hand pumped organ) drifting around gated compounds calling the faithful to Easter services. Great crowds of Christians gather in courtyards, houses and church buildings in the Christian sectors throughout the city. The excitement is almost tangible, as even the poorest of families will splurge on a new shalwar qamiz (a long, loose, non-revealing garment worn by both men and women), a tradition reserved for only one other occasion in the year¾ Christmas. Tantalizing smells waft across the courtyard from the open fire where huge caldrons of rice and curry are being prepared for the crowd following the afternoon service. As honored guests, the missionary family will get the royal treatment from these deeply hospitable people. The host pastor scours the neighborhood borrowing chairs, plates, glasses and utensils to insure the comfort of their Western guests. The guests are offered the luxury of soft drinks or a local concoction we dubbed "rose water" because of its taste. The feast concludes with the obligatory cup of tea (after all, this is a former English colony) and a popular sweet called barfi (it pays to overlook the name). Communion is traditionally served during the Easter service. For all of its symbolism and beauty, it appears to be rather unhygienic to the North American psyche when the single cup of juice is passed from person to person, each taking a sip to wash down a small square of chapatti (flat bread). Do you recall the scripture, "…If they drink any deadly thing, it shall not hurt them..." (Mark 16:18)? Well, I can verify that this is true! Following the evening service, we carefully pick our way back through the narrow village lanes with the aid of a flashlight to avoid open sewer canals and other unsavory items that most certainly litter the pathway. And don’t forget a stick to fend away rabid, mongrel dogs that roam the area undercover of darkness. All in all, I guess it’s not that much different from the average Easter Sunday in North America is it? ninetyandnine.com © Julie Long, 2000 -------- Julie Long has a personal motto entitled of "Keep Moving." As the daughter of a pastor-turned-missionary-turned-Foreign Missions Executive-turned-pastor, she has literally been on the move cross country and cross continent. The wandering spirit continued after marrying Peter, who is Canadian born and raised (try not to hold that against him). The Longs have been spotted at New Life Pentecostal Church (Bridgeton, MO), on assignment in the Leeward Islands, and assisting with the start-up of a daughter church in Warrenton, MO and now currently make their home in Canada and serve on staff at Saint John's First UPC as Youth Pastor and Administrative Assistant respectively. Have an opinion on an article? Let us know how you feel! Click feedback & fill us in. |
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